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Risotto with Shiitake, Squid and Tomatoes


A handful of the last good sun-ripened tomatoes, plus fresh herbs and lemon juice, keep this early fall risotto fresh-tasting.


  1. 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  2. 3/4 pound shiitake mushrooms—stems discarded, caps sliced 1/3 inch thick
  3. Salt
  4. Freshly ground pepper
  5. 1/2 pound cleaned squid—bodies sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick, large tentacles halved
  6. 3 cups bottled clam juice (24 ounces)
  7. 3 cups water
  8. 1/2 cup finely chopped onion
  9. 2 garlic cloves, minced
  10. 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons arborio rice
  11. 1/4 cup rosé wine
  12. Pinch of saffron threads
  13. 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
  14. 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  15. 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
  16. 12 cherry tomatoes, quartered
  17. 2 tablespoons chopped basil
  18. 1 teaspoon chopped sage
  1. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the shiitake and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until tender and starting to brown, about 6 minutes; uncover and cook until browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl.
  2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in the same skillet. Add the squid, season with salt and pepper and stir over high heat for 1 minute. Scrape the squid and any juices into another bowl; cover.
  3. In a medium saucepan, bring the clam juice and water to a boil. Cover and keep hot over low heat. In another medium saucepan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the onion and garlic and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the rice and stir over moderate heat until coated with the oil. Add the wine and saffron and simmer until almost evaporated. Add enough of the hot clam broth to just cover the rice and cook, stirring, until the broth is almost absorbed. Repeat until the rice is al dente and bound in a creamy sauce, about 25 minutes. Keep the remaining 1/2 cup of broth hot.
  4. Stir the shiitake and butter into the rice, then stir in the squid and its juices. Add the remaining clam broth and the lemon juice and zest and stir well. Remove from the heat and stir in the tomatoes, basil and sage. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the risotto into shallow bowls and serve.

Suggested Pairing

With its saline edge from squid, this risotto is a fabulous match for a mouthwatering rosé. Try one from Bordeaux where châteaus have recently started producing rosés, a novelty in the region.