Globe-trotting TV chef Andrew Zimmern sometimes trains his roving eye on the food of his home state, Minnesota. Here he gives the Midwest’s local catch the saltimbocca treatment, pairing grilled whole trout with Rome’s bright and savory flavor trio: pancetta, sage and lemon.
Slideshow:More Trout Recipes
Four 3/4-pound trout, cleaned
20 sage sprigs
12 thin lemon slices, plus 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 pound very thinly sliced pancetta
Canola oil, for brushing
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small shallot, minced
1 tablespoon minced parsley
1 tablespoon minced tarragon
1 tablespoon minced scallion
1 tablespoon minced mint
1 teaspoon tomato paste
2 tablespoons dry white wine
1/4 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons unrefined hazelnut oil
2 tablespoons unrefined peanut oil
8 ounces baby watercress
2 tablespoons chopped chives
How to Make It
Season the fish all over with salt and pepper. Fill each cavity with 1 sprig of sage and 1 slice of lemon. Place 2 sprigs of sage and 1 slice of lemon on both sides of each fish.
Place a sheet of wax paper on a work surface. Arrange 6 to 8 slices of the pancetta in 2 overlapping rows to form a 6-by-8-inch rectangle. Set 1 fish on the bottom edge of the pancetta. Using the wax paper as a guide, tightly roll up the fish in the pancetta. Carefully peel off the wax paper. Brush the fish with canola oil and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining fish and pancetta and more oil.
Preheat a grill or a broiler with a rack in the top third of the oven. Grill or broil the fish, flipping halfway through, until cooked through, about 6 minutes per side. Season with pepper.
Meanwhile, in a small skillet, melt the butter. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the shallot, parsley, tarragon, scallion, mint and tomato paste. Cook, stirring, for 20 seconds. Add the wine, bring the sauce to a boil and cook for 1 minute. Add 2 tablespoons of the cream and cook until the sauce thickens, about 1 minute. Scrape the sauce into a small heatproof bowl and stir in the lemon juice. Season with salt.
In a large bowl, combine the mustard with the vinegar. Slowly drizzle in the hazelnut and peanut oils, whisking constantly, until incorporated. Whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons of cream. Season with salt and pepper. Add the watercress and chives and toss to coat. Serve with the fish and butter sauce.
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