Mortadella and Cheese Panini

To make these sandwiches, use 6-by-4-inch slices of dense white bread from a peasant loaf to accommodate the hearty filling.

1/2 cup plain yogurt, preferably goat's-milk
1 small scallion, thinly sliced
1 1/2 tablespoons freshly grated white horseradish (or drained jarred horseradish)
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt
Eight 3/4-inch-thick slices of peasant bread
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing
1/2 pound thinly sliced mortadella
1/2 pound Robiola Bosina cheese, cut into 4 equal slices with the rind, or fresh ricotta

In a small bowl, combine the yogurt with the scallion, horseradish and mustard. Season with salt.
Heat a panini press or griddle. Brush both sides of each bread slice with oil. Arrange 4 bread slices on a work surface and spread with the horseradish yogurt. Layer the mortadella and Robiola on top and close the sandwiches with the remaining 4 bread slices. Set them on the preheated press or griddle. If using a griddle, top the panini with a large baking sheet and weigh down with heavy cans. Cook the panini over moderate heat until browned and crisp outside: 3 minutes in a press, 3 minutes per side on a griddle. Cut the panini in half and serve hot.

Suggested Pairing

Crisp, fragrant Italian white, such as a Tocai Friulano.