© Jason Fulford
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Serves : 4 main-course servings, or 8 as part of a larger spread

Iranians treat herbs not as a seasoning, but as a vegetable: Copious fresh herbs are the foundation of many Persian recipes. This is especially the case in spring, when Nowruz, the Persian new year, pulls everyone out of their homes to go on picnics, where kookoo sabzi is always part of the spread. It’s a frittata-like dish of fresh greens bound by just enough egg to hold it together. Every family has its own combination of herbs. My family’s recipe starts with onions lightly caramelized with turmeric for subtle sweetness, basil for its aroma, and the unusual addition of romaine lettuce, which helps give the kookoo a fluffy texture. —Tannaz Sassooni Reprinted from All About Eggs: Everything We Know About the World’s Most Important Food. Copyright ©  2017 by Lucky Peach, LLC. Photographs and illustrations copyright ©  2017 by Tamara Shopsin and Jason Fulford. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of Penguin Random House, LLC. Slideshow: More Egg Recipes

How to Make It

Step 1    

Heat 1/4 cup oil over medium-high heat in an 8-inch nonstick skillet. Add 1/2 teaspoon of the turmeric and the onion, and sauté, stirring occasionally, until onions are lightly browned, 12 to 15 minutes. Add all the greens, parsley through scallions (and fenugreek and garlic chives if using), and stir to combine (the pan will be very full). Wilt the vegetable mixture for about 4 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Wash the pan.

Step 2    

Whisk together the eggs, salt, pepper, flour, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon turmeric in a medium bowl. Add 2 cups of the vegetable mixture and stir to combine completely. If there’s still egg puddling at the bottom of the bowl, add more of the vegetable mixture, 1/4 cup at a time, until the egg is fully incorporated. (Save any leftover vegetable mixture for something else, like a scramble.)

Step 3    

Return the pan to the stove over medium heat and add the remaining 1/4 cup oil. Add the egg mixture to the pan and quickly spread it into an even layer. Cover and cook, reducing the heat as necessary to maintain a gentle bubble, until the bottom is quite browned but not burned and the top has set, about 10 minutes. With the side of a spatula, divide into quarters. Flip each quarter and continue cooking, covered, until the bottom is browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Cut each quarter in half to make 8 slices.

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