“Gewürztraminer is so in concert with this dish, it’s almost orchestral,” restaurateur Peter Kasperski notes. He loves how the wine’s sweet spiciness enhances the fish sauce, curry and cilantro in the salad. Two top producers are Domaines Schlumberger (try the lychee-scented 2005 Fleur) and Trimbach (the dry, spicy 2005 is very good).
ingredients
2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar
1 tablespoon mirin
1/2 teaspoon Thai red curry paste
1/2 teaspoon mild curry powder
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
One 2 1/2-pound green papaya—peeled, seeded and finely julienned, preferably on a mandoline (6 cups)
1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro
4 small scallions, thinly sliced
3 ounces inari (fried tofu skin), thinly sliced (see Note)
2 tablespoons finely shredded pickled ginger
Salt
directions
In a large bowl, whisk the fish sauce with the lime juice, rice vinegar, mirin, curry paste, curry powder and vegetable oil. Add the green papaya, cilantro, scallions, inari and pickled ginger and toss well. Season lightly with salt and refrigerate until chilled, about 30 minutes.
MAKE AHEAD The salad can be refrigerated overnight.
NOTESInari is available at Asian markets. Look for it in the refrigerated section.