Gaelic Punch

For hot punches, young Irish whiskeys work best. Heat intensifies the tannic edge of older whiskeys; young ones stay smooth.

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg, for garnish
3/4 cup Demerara or other raw sugar
40 ounces boiling water
One 750-ml bottle Irish whiskey
Strips of zest from 6 lemons, plus 6 thin lemon slices, each studded with 4 cloves, for garnish

In a heatproof bowl, muddle the lemon zest with the sugar. Let stand for 1 to 2 hours. Muddle again, add 8 ounces boiling water and stir until the sugar dissolves. Strain into a warm heatproof bowl and stir in the whiskey. Add the remaining 32 ounces of boiling water and garnish with the studded lemon slices and nutmeg.