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Fresh Shell Bean Soup

As a young man shopping in Boston’s North End, a historically Italian neighborhood, Peter Pastan would watch customers at his local Italian market ask for the prosciutto skin. He had no idea what they did with it. Today he cures his own meats at his two Washington, DC, restaurants, Obelisk and 2 Amys, then uses prosciutto skin to flavor and thicken soups like this tomatoey fresh shell bean soup. While the skin is optional here, it’s easy to obtain—sometimes for free—from delis and meat counters.

  • ACTIVE: 1 HR
  • TOTAL TIME: 1 HR 45 MIN
  • SERVINGS: 10
  • Healthy
  • Make-Ahead
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Recipe

Ingredients

  1. 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
  2. One 3-ounce slice of pancetta, finely diced (1/2 cup)
  3. 5 garlic cloves, smashed
  4. 3 medium carrots, diced
  5. 3 celery ribs, cut into 1/4-inch dice, plus 10 celery leaves, for garnish
  6. 1 large onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  7. 1 fennel bulb, diced
  8. 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
  9. 1 rosemary sprig
  10. 1 basil sprig
  11. 4 large plum tomatoes—peeled, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  12. 3 pounds fresh cranberry beans, shelled (3 cups); see Note
  13. 2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
  14. One 3-by-3-inch piece of prosciutto skin (optional)
  15. 6 cups chicken stock
  16. Salt and freshly ground pepper

Directions

  1. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the 3 tablespoons of oil. Add the pancetta and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until golden, 4 minutes. Add the garlic, carrots, celery, onion, fennel, parsley, rosemary and basil and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened, 10 minutes.
  2. Add the tomatoes, beans, potatoes and prosciutto skin to the casserole and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are just heated through, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Cook over moderately low heat until the beans are tender, about 40 minutes. Discard the prosciutto skin and the herb sprigs.
  3. Partially mash the beans with a potato masher, or transfer 2 cups of the soup to a food processor or food mill and puree; return the puree to the casserole. Season the soup with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls and drizzle with olive oil. Garnish with the celery leaves and serve.

Serve With

    Crusty bread.

Notes

    Any combination of fresh shell beans can be used. Cooking time will vary according to the variety of bean.

Wine

Pastan’s fresh, lightly earthy shell bean soup paired well with Pinot Noir, which often has a similarly earthy character. Moorman’s latest project, Evening Land Vineyards, makes a range of terrific Pinots, like the complex, fragrant 2006 Sonoma Coast Occidental Vineyard. Another good Pinot poured at the event was guest Chad Melville’s lively, ruby-colored 2006 Samsara Melville Vineyard.

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