2 1/2 pounds chicken parts, such as wings, necks and drumsticks
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/8 teaspoon turmeric
2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup cured green and black olives
One 3-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and thickly sliced
2 garlic cloves, smashed
4 cilantro sprigs, coarsely chopped
1 preserved lemon, flesh discarded, skin thickly sliced (see Note)
Thick strips of zest from 1 fresh lemon
1 dried red chile
1/8 teaspoon ground cumin
6 cups water
In a large casserole, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add half of the chicken, season with salt and pepper and brown over moderately high heat, about 3 minutes per side. Sprinkle half of the turmeric over the chicken, stir well and transfer the chicken to a plate. Repeat with the remaining chicken and turmeric, using the oil already in the casserole.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil to the casserole and stir in the onions, olives, ginger, garlic, cilantro, preserved lemon, lemon zest, chile and cumin. Cook, stirring, until the onions soften slightly, about 3 minutes.
Return the chicken to the casserole, add the water and bring to a boil. Cover partially and simmer over low heat for 1 hour. Remove the chicken parts and simmer the sauce over moderately low heat until reduced to 2 cups, about 50 minutes. Remove and discard the chile. Refrigerate the jus for 3 hours and up to 2 days. Spoon off any fat before using.
Preserved lemons are available at Middle Eastern groceries.