How to Make It
Preheat the oven to 350°. Butter and flour twelve 1/3-cup ramekins, tapping out any excess flour. In a medium saucepan, melt the 4 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat. Whisk in the 1/4 cup of flour until smooth. Gradually whisk in the milk and 1 cup of the heavy cream until smooth; bring to a boil, whisking, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, whisking, for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the goat cheese. Scrape the sauce into a bowl and let cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally.
Beat the egg yolks into the sauce. Stir in the Roquefort and 1/2 cup of the Gruyère. Season with salt and white pepper.
In a large stainless steel bowl, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until almost firm. Using a large rubber spatula, fold one-third of the beaten whites into the cheese sauce, then fold in the remaining egg whites just until blended. Gently spoon the soufflé mixture into the prepared ramekins, filling them three-fourths full. Set the ramekins on a rimmed baking sheet. Run your thumb around the rim of each ramekin to clean the inside.
Bake the soufflés for 25 minutes, or until risen and golden but not quite set in the center. Let cool, then invert the soufflés onto a large ovenproof platter or individual dishes.
Raise the oven temperature to 400°. Pour 2 tablespoons of the remaining heavy cream over each soufflé and sprinkle them with the remaining 1 cup of Gruyère. Bake the soufflés for 8 to 10 minutes, or until puffed and golden brown. If baking the soufflés on a platter, use a flat spatula to transfer them with their cream to plates, then serve.