In a large bowl, mix the water with the yeast and sugar and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Add the 2 cups of flour and the salt and stir until a raggy dough forms. Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes.
Lightly oil the bowl and return the dough to it; turn the dough to coat it with oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours. Punch down the dough and divide it into 4 balls.
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