- One 2 1/2-pound boneless veal leg roast
- 1/4 cup Picholine olives, pitted and chopped
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon herbes de Provence
- 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 large scallion, minced
- 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 cup white wine
- 3 1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
- 1 large garlic clove, minced
- 2 fennel bulbs—very thinly sliced on a mandoline, soaked in ice water for 1 hour and drained
- 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved
- 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
- Preheat the oven to 375°. Set the roast on a work surface. Using a sharp knife, slice the roast lengthwise about two-thirds of the way through. In a small bowl, combine the olives, 1 teaspoon of the herbes de Provence, 1 tablespoon of the oil and the scallion and lemon zest. Rub the roast all over with the remaining 1 tablespoon of herbes de Provence, and season with salt and black pepper. Pack the olive mixture into the slit and tie the roast closed with butcher's twine at 2-inch intervals.
- In a large ovenproof skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the veal roast and cook over moderately high heat until browned all over, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the veal for about 30 minutes, turning once, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 145°. Transfer the veal roast to a plate and let it cool to room temperature. Wrap the veal roast in plastic and refrigerate until it is chilled, at least 3 hours or overnight.
- Meanwhile, set the skillet over high heat and add the wine. Boil for 1 minute, scraping up any browned bits. Add 1/4 cup of water and boil for 30 seconds. Remove the skillet from the heat and pour in any accumulated juices from the cooling veal. Let the pan sauce cool to room temperature. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the oil and 1/2 tablespoon of the lemon juice and season with salt and black pepper.
- In a bowl, combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, 3 tablespoons of lemon juice and the garlic; season with salt and black pepper. Pat the fennel dry with paper towels and add to the bowl with the tomatoes and parsley. Toss well.
- Remove the twine from the veal. Carve the roast into 1/3-inch-thick slices and transfer to plates. Spoon the pan sauce over the meat and serve the fennel salad alongside.
Serve it with an equally cool Provençal rosé, which is certainly what anyone from Marseille would do.