This luscious beet soup, served with a dollop of rich, tart sour cream and plenty of salady garnishes (cubed boiled potatoes, crunchy diced radishes, chopped hard-boiled eggs and fragrant, coarsely chopped dill), seems the very essence of Russian cooking: sustaining food that still carries hints of its homey peasant influences. Borscht, especially when served cold, is delicious with a lightly earthy, berry-inflected rosé, such as the berry-scented 2007 Mas de Gourgonnier rosé or the 2006 Château d’Aquéria.
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