How to Make It
Trim off the top and bottom from each eggplant. With a vegetable peeler, remove 3 to 4 thin vertical strips of skin from each vegetable, leaving the eggplants striped, then cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices. Sprinkle the eggplant with 2 tablespoons of the salt and let drain in a nonaluminum colander for at least 2 hours or preferably overnight. Rinse and drain the eggplant; pat dry with paper towels.
Heat 1/4 inch of oil in a large heavy skillet over high heat. Fry the eggplant slices in batches until golden brown on both sides, about 4 minutes. Drain on paper towels; place on a cutting board, and reserve. With a potato masher, crush the eggplant with 1 of the garlic cloves, 2 tablespoons each of parsley and coriander, the paprika, cumin and cayenne.
Return 3 tablespoons of the reserved oil to the skillet and reheat. Add the tomatoes, 1 teaspoon of the salt and the sugar, if necessary. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring frequently, until most of the moisture evaporates, about 5 minutes.
Add the mashed eggplant to the tomatoes in the skillet and cook over very low heat, stirring frequently, until most of the moisture evaporates and the mixture is very thick, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice and vinegar.
Trim the excess fat from the chicken or lamb. Wash the chicken; pat dry. In a mortar, pound the remaining garlic with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Blend in the ginger, saffron and black pepper. Gradually stir in 2 tablespoons of the reserved oil and 1/2 cup of hot water, as if making mayonnaise.
In a large flameproof casserole or deep skillet, toss the chicken with the garlic-spice mixture to coat each piece. Cover and cook over low heat for 5 minutes. Add the onion, the remaining parsley and coriander and enough water to just cover, about 2 1/2 cups. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to moderate, cover and simmer for 1 hour, or until the chicken begins to fall off the bone. Remove the chicken to a serving dish and cover to keep moist. Skim off most of the fat, then continue cooking the pan juices uncovered over moderate heat until reduced to 1 1/2 cups, about 15 minutes.
Mix half the pan juices with the eggplant puree and adjust the seasoning, adding additional salt, black pepper and lemon juice to taste. Place the chicken in a small heatproof serving bowl. Pile the eggplant on top, forming a pyramid. Surround with remaining sauce. Cover loosely with foil and reheat 10 minutes in a 400° oven just before serving. Garnish the puree with thin slices of lemon and sprigs of coriander if desired.