Bryan Caswell describes his Cajun grandmother, Ma Daigle, as French, Catholic and four feet tall--five feet with the bun. She taught him to cook gumbo without the usual okra or file and absolutely no tomato. Caswell thinks slow-cooked dishes like this deliciously spicy, meaty stew may be the best way to cook wild fowl. "They're never going to get tender otherwise," he says. "They've been flying south for 1,000 miles."