At Harvest Moon Cafe in Sonoma, California, Nick and Jen Demarest prepare simple food with a Mediterranean bent. Jen, who creates the desserts, uses a food processor to make this lemony, cinnamon-laced ice milk for her nod to Italian affogato—espresso over ice cream. Desserts like this earn raves from the locals, including revered author Paula Wolfert.
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3 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
Zest strips from 1 lemon, removed with a vegetable peeler
1 cinnamon stick, broken
4 large egg whites, at room temperature
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 cup strong-brewed espresso, chilled
Whipped cream and ground cinnamon, for serving
How to Make It
In a medium saucepan, combine the milk and the heavy cream with 3/4 cup of the sugar. Add the lemon zest and broken cinnamon stick and bring to a simmer. Cover and let the milk mixture stand off the heat for 30 minutes.
Strain the milk mixture into a bowl. Set the bowl in an ice water bath and stir occasionally until chilled. Pour the milk mixture into a 9-by-13-inch glass dish.
In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites with the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar and the lemon juice at high speed until soft peaks form. Dollop the beaten whites all over the milk mixture and freeze until solid, about 5 hours.
Cut the ice milk into 2-inch squares. Using a sturdy spatula, transfer half of the squares to a food processor. Process until completely smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl. Scrape the smooth ice milk into a bowl and freeze. Repeat with the remaining squares of ice milk. Freeze the ice milk until it is firm but not solid, about 30 minutes.
Scoop the ice milk into 6 tall glasses and top with the chilled espresso. Dollop the drinks with whipped cream and sprinkle with cinnamon. Serve the drinks with straws and long spoons.
The ice milk can be prepared through Step 4 and frozen in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
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