Chef Way At Xochitl restaurant in Philadelphia, these simple griddle cakes are presented as a trio—one topped with chorizo, one with duck and one with goat cheese—with a cactus paddle salad.
1 1/4 cups masa harina
1 cup cold water
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 poblano chiles
1/4 cup pure olive oil, plus more for frying
1 onion, finely chopped
Pinch of dried oregano, crumbled
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 garlic clove, minced
One 15-ounce can black beans, drained
4 ounces chilled fresh goat cheese, crumbled
In a medium bowl, stir the masa with the water and the salt until a soft dough forms. Divide the dough into 12 balls and flatten them into 2-inch cakes. Transfer to a plastic wrap-lined baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap.
Roast the poblanos directly over a gas flame or under a broiler, turning, until charred all over. Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let stand for 10 minutes. Peel, core and seed the chiles, then cut them into thin strips.
In a medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil until shimmering. Add half of the onion and cook over moderate heat until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the poblano strips and oregano and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.
In a medium saucepan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil until shimmering. Add the garlic and the remaining onion and cook over moderate heat until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the beans and cook, coarsely mashing them with a potato masher just until creamy, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.
Heat a griddle. When it is hot, generously brush it with oil and add the masa cakes. Cook over moderately high heat, turning once or twice, until they are golden and crisp, about 4 minutes. Transfer the cakes to a platter and top each with a dollop of the beans and a mound of the poblano mixture. Garnish with the goat cheese and season with salt and pepper. Serve right away.
