In Italy, artisans who roll pasta by hand the traditional way are revered. “Young cooks aren’t even allowed to touch the dough,” explains chef Fabio Trabocchi, a native of Le Marche. “The sfogline know the craft. So we let them do it.” Now based in Washington, DC, Trabocchi still believes in leaving the pasta making to the specialists: He’ll have one in residence at his aptly named restaurant Sfoglina, opening this fall.
Trabocchi is less than traditional, however, when it comes to cooking the pasta, using a technique called pasta risottata. He prepares penne as if he were making risotto, toasting it in a pan, then slowly adding white wine and stock as well as tomatoes and basil. The starch thickens the sauce, making it so creamy that adding a final sprinkling of cheese is optional. 4445 Connecticut Ave. NW; sfoglinadc.com
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