David Barzelay has a thing for trees. The chef at San Francisco’s Lazy Bear is obsessed with bringing conifers—cone-bearing plants—into the kitchen. Whether steeped, smoked or fresh, they’re lending foresty flavor to everything from cocktails to oysters. Barzelay isn’t alone in his fixation: There will be pine needles scattered over veal tartare at Mads Refslund’s forthcoming Brooklyn restaurant and more shrubbery on the menu at Harvest in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Here, Barzelay geeks out on the prickly treasures.
“You can find these light-green tips year-round. They have a piney flavor with bright, citrusy notes.” At Lazy Bear, Barzelay purees the tips with cream to drizzle over oysters.
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Juniper Leaves & Berries
“Look for the scaly mature leaves of this cypress-family tree. They have a ton of flavor and less of that oily, resinous quality.” Barzelay infuses mushroom broth with the berries for a grassy punch.