For a slice of Lima’s artsy, bohemian side, spend a day or more wandering Barranco's cobblestoned streets, lined with art galleries, indie boutiques, food carts, and bars. The name of the neighborhood translates as "ravine," and this area started out as a summer retreat for wealthy families, and some of its Colonial-style, early-20th-century mansions still being used as shops. Barranco is also home to MATE – Mario Testino, the MAC contemporary art museum, and Galería Museo Pedro de Osma, among others. Walk along Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs), then take the stairway and wind down Bajada de Baños to the beach, stopping off for a drink at one of the numerous cafés along the way. Night owls and party people also flock to Barranco, given the ever-increasing number of hip bars, craft breweries, and restaurants that have opened in the past few years. At the very least, set aside a day (or two) for Barranco, and start with the six must-see places listed here.
Celebrated son Mario Testino returned to his city of birth to open MATE, a stunning visual portfolio of the photographer’s most famous works. Fashion, film, and music’s great and glamorous feature in two permanent collections at the Barranco-based museum, spanning the careers of Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, the Rolling Stones, and Angelina Jolie among others. It’s not all glitz and celebrities, however: Alta Moda, Testino’s take on high Andean fashion, is equally captivating. Most striking, however, is the Diana, Princess of Wales, exhibit, a haunting collection of images first published in 1997 in Vanity Fair.
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The magnificent recently restored mansion of Don Pedro de Osma y Pardo is yet another place to see a rich variety of art and artifacts. Built around 1900, the house was once a stage for the grand lives of Peru's aristocrats.