Instead of sprinkling his soup with the customary bits of chopped fresh dill, Adam Perry Lang makes a vibrant horseradish and dill pistou (typically a condiment of fresh basil, garlic and olive oil). A swirl of the flavorful pistou brightens up the soup enormously.
8 cups diced chicken (3/4 inch), from two 3 1/2-pound chickens
In a bowl, whisk the eggs with the olive oil, seltzer, salt, white pepper and ginger. Add the matzo meal and stir until moistened. Refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours.
Line 2 baking sheets with wax paper. Scoop the matzo meal mixture into fifty 1-inch balls. Using lightly moistened hands, roll the matzo balls until smooth. Transfer to the baking sheets and refrigerate the matzo balls briefly.
In a blender or food processor, pulse the olive oil with the dill, fresh horseradish, garlic, salt and white pepper until the dill is finely chopped and a sauce has formed.
Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add the turnip, celery and carrot and cook the vegetables until they are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold water.
In a large pot of boiling salted water, simmer the matzo balls over very low heat, covered, until they are plump and cooked through, 25 to 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, in another large pot, heat the stock with the vegetables. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the matzo balls to the soup; simmer for 5 minutes. Add the chicken and cook until heated through. Serve the soup in bowls with a dollop of the dill pistou.
The recipe can be prepared through Step 3; refrigerate overnight.
Sauvignon Blanc's bright, gooseberry-inflected zestiness is a good match for this light but flavorful soup. Some of the best Sauvignons come from New Zealand's Marlborough region; for a kosher choice, check out Goose Bay's bottlings.
Fried Semolina Dumplings with Apricots and Apricot Preserves
These griesschnitte (fried semolina dumplings) are moist and not too sweet, a perfect end to a meal. This recipe, from chef Roman Albrecht of The Kosher Classroom in Berlin, is made with margarine and soy milk.
1 1/2 tablespoons margarine, plus more for greasing
1 quart soy milk
1/2 cup granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling
1 plump vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
Pinch of salt
4 ounces dried apricots, finely chopped
1 cup fine semolina (see Note)
2 large egg whites
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Warmed apricot preserves and fresh raspberries and blackberries, for serving
Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with margarine. In a large saucepan, combine the soy milk with the 1/2 cup of granulated sugar, the vanilla bean and seeds and salt and bring to a simmer. Stir in the dried apricots. Whisking constantly, add the semolina and whisk over moderate heat until thick, about 2 minutes. Let the semolina stand until slightly cooled, about 10 minutes. Discard the vanilla bean.
In a medium bowl, using a handheld electric mixer, beat the egg whites just until foamy. While beating the semolina mixture at medium speed, add the egg whites in a steady stream until thoroughly incorporated. Scrape the semolina batter into the prepared baking dish and place a sheet of margarine-greased wax paper on top, pressing to even the surface. Refrigerate the semolina batter until it is set, at least 2 hours or overnight.
Turn the semolina out onto a work surface and cut into 24 rectangles (you can also cut them into other shapes, like squares or circles). Melt 1/2 tablespoon of the margarine in a large nonstick skillet. Add 8 of the semolina rectangles and sprinkle them with granulated sugar. Cook over moderate heat until golden on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Carefully flip the semolina rectangles and cook until the sugar is melted and golden brown, about 2 minutes longer. Transfer the semolina rectangles to a platter and keep warm. Wipe out the skillet. Repeat in 2 more batches with the remaining margarine, semolina and sugar, wiping out the skillet between batches.
Dust the fried semolina with confectioners’ sugar and serve with warmed apricot preserves and berries.
The recipe can be prepared through Step 2 up to 2 days in advance.
Fine semolina flour, also called extra-fancy durum flour, is available at Italian markets and online at kingarthurflour.com.
Although most people would reach for a sweet wine to pair with these dessert dumplings, the tart apricots suggest a lively, off-dry Riesling would be better instead.
One 6-pound first-cut brisket, with fat cap attached (see Note)
2 quarts chicken stock or low-sodium broth
2 quarts water
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/2 cup chopped oregano leaves
1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground pepper
prepare the brisket
In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, combine the olive oil, garlic, oregano, salt, peppercorns and juniper. Put the brisket in the pot, fat side up, and rub the garlic-oregano mixture all over it. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
prepare the brisket
Add the broth and water to the casserole; the brisket should be submerged. Bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to moderately low and simmer for about 3 1/2 hours, turning the brisket halfway, until the meat is very tender. Transfer the brisket fat side up to a rack set over a rimmed baking sheet and cover loosely with foil. Skim the fat from the surface of the broth; boil until reduced to 2 cups, about 30 minutes.
make the sauce
In a food processor, puree the lemon juice, garlic, 1/4 cup of the oregano and the oil until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl. Stir in the remaining oregano.
make the sauce
Preheat the oven to 450°. Roast the brisket on the top shelf of the oven for 15 minutes, until deeply golden and crispy on top. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 15 minutes.
make the sauce
Thinly slice the brisket and drizzle with some of the reduced cooking liquid. Serve with the lemon-oregano sauce.
The first-cut (or flat-cut) is a lean one, so leaving the fat cap attached is crucial: It keeps the brisket moist during braising.