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Xudum’s design is eclectic and contemporary—a departure from traditional safari décor. The nine suites have canopied platform beds, and atop each structure is a viewing deck furnished with a king-size bed and binoculars—perfect for viewing the elephants as they graze around the camp. The 62,000- acre reserve, one of the largest in any permanent African delta, is a part-land, part-water experience. Guests from the nine pinewood suites punt for hours along water channels in mekoro dugouts, or make incursions into the acacia- and palm-studded plains, hot on the trail of hippos, Cape buffalo, and a profusion of wild cats (hence the lion research institute that’s the reserve’s only other tenant).