The lakeside village of north hatley—87 miles east of Montreal and 20 miles north of the U.S. border— is the summer destination of the province’s heavy hitters (the premier of Quebec) and epicures, who come for locally produced raw-milk cheeses, foie gras, and apple cider pressed by Benedictine monks. Tempting these discriminating palates is Manoir Hovey, an 1899 Georgian inn and restaurant on Lake Massawippi. Chef Roland Ménard runs its kitchen, and for the past 27 years he's been preparing such gratifying dishes as seared duck breast with pan-roasted wild mushrooms. Upstairs, the hotel's 39 rooms are equally comforting, with bold checkered fabrics, canopy beds, and, in some instances, fireplaces.
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