Food & Wine

spinner
Quartier Zelai
Hasparren, France
33-5-59-29-67-86

COST: $$$$$


In 2004, Arnaud Daguin—the chef at Biarritz’s famed (and now closed) Les Platanes, and progeny of a venerated Gascon food family—pulled up stakes and, with his wife, Véronique, moved into the mountains to open a five-room bed-and-breakfast. In 2006, Hegia opened for business; in 2007, it earned a Michelin star. The meat is from a neighbor’s farm; the seafood and produce come from the nearby Bayonne market; the cheese is made just down the road. Daguin cooks everything at low temperatures for a long time, he explains, and uses only the barest of embellishments to express the ingredients’ full flavor—a scattering of sugar or salt, a dash of olive oil. Why, he asks, rely on artifice? Tender duck breast arrives over finely julienned carrots, pan-cooked to a sweetened softness; delicate fillets of steamed hake are served atop a sort of candied vegetable hash made of diced slow-roasted beets and turnips. If Hegia’s 18th-century timbered exterior is a monument to the traditional Pays Basque, the interior is a testament to its bold new wave. A double-height reception hall is riven by an asymmetrical oak staircase that leads up to the five guest rooms, each unique and firmly contemporary.

As Featured In...

From Travel + Leisure, Feb 2006

“At Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Daguin's Hegia inn, ancient wooden beams and timbers have been lovingly restored without losing their rough-hewn appearance. The interior, however, has been completely transformed into a minimalist lair....” MORE>>

“50 Romantic Escapes”

Last updated February 2006 lastArticle = 2/2006 and lastAward =

MARKETPLACE

 

206