Kau Kee Restaurant

In the early 20th-century, Hong Kong had many more restaurants like this small, steamy noodle shop (known as dai pai dong). Most have been shuttered, since the government views dai pai dong as a reminder of a poorer era in the city’s history. Kau Kee—formerly an open-air shop, like most dai pai dong—has since moved indoors, but it’s still serving its star dish: beef brisket noodles in clear broth or curry. The mix of Chinese herbs and spices changes with the seasons. Note that the matronly owner tends to rush diners out as soon as they’ve finished eating.

We Loved

Beef brisket noodles in broth.