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This concrete-floored spaghetti Western marries Italian and Southwestern cuisines in a jewel-toned and gold leafed interior as campy as the name. But chef Bernie Kantak’s cooking—for instance, his paprika-cured pork belly with pickled horseradish–beet slaw—is excellent. Cowboy Ciao’s local mega-restaurateur owner Peter Kasperski created and annotated the vast, international wine list, which favors small producers.

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Mushroom pan-fry with ancho chile cream, double-cooked polenta and cotija (aged Mexican cheese).

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