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The best way to start a meal at year-old A Voce is with an order of warm Sardinian ricotta and grilled country bread—a small taste of the simple but powerful flavors to come. Andrew Carmellini (an F&W Best New Chef 2000) is producing some of the city’s most phenomenal Italian food; the accompanying wine list has plenty of great deals. The dining room is furnished with an odd but elegant combination of Eames swivel chairs and tree-bark sculptures made by Korean artist Lee Jae Hyo.

We Loved

Spicy clam linguine with Calabrian pepper, smoked bacon and clams.

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