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In a city starved for experienced workers, Stella!—whose French Quarter home was being renovated when Katrina hit, and which finally reopened in April 2006—has somehow assem-bled one of the city’s best waitstaffs. Presumably this is a testament to chef-owner Scott Bos-well’s talents—and certainly he is one of the chefs least hidebound by New Orleans tradi-tion: His Asian-fusion cooking is an exuberant Creole-free zone.

We Loved

Shellfish curry with Maine lobster; wild snails crowned with lavender meringue.

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