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This exceptionally good 1930s ocean liner–styled national chain sailed into town last winter and immediately made friends with the downtown crowd, as the lively scene on the curved burgundy leather banquettes proves. The menu is a piscine encyclopedia, local and…not so much. The mammoth raw bar includes New Zealand oysters, and nobody’s caught an arctic char around here lately, climate change or not. But freshness is the mantra: It’s just off the plane.

We Loved

Fin & shell fish stew; grilled day-boat Alaskan halibut “T-bone.”

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