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What joy to find L.A.’s dreadlocked chef Govind Armstrong among the sea of tourist traps that is Ocean Drive. At the sultry new Table 8, hundreds of candlelike lights flicker above a lively outdoor bar full of hot, young things and power brokers. A handsome, knowledgeable staff takes orders from Armstrong’s simple and understated yet sophisticated menu, which you might (with a wince) call Flo-Cal.

We Loved

Pan-seared pompano with wilted butter lettuce, parsnip flan and cilantro gremolata flecked with pomegranate seeds.

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