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Chef Edgar Leal’s impressive and inventive Nuevo Latino creations are continually evolving, making menu perusal a treat in this sleek, gently lit room with well-spaced tables. Sommelier Richard DiGiacomo matches complex flavors with aplomb from his list of uncommon South Americans. The 2002 Preludio Barrel Select—a blend of Tannat, Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Mourvèdre from Juanicó, Uruguay—is one rarity that stands up well to the lusty cuisine.

We Loved

Salmon tiradito with homemade agar-agar “caviar,” cilantro, tomato and aji amarillo; cachapa soufflé with guayanes cheese (like a corn pancake with salty mozzarella); honey and orange–glazed black cod.

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