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This nondescript, overlit sushi bar is the original Nobu: the one from which all 15 Nobus and Matsuhisas were spun. When chef Matsuhisa (an F&W Best New Chef 1989) announced he was replacing it with a new, flashy, David Rockwell–designed flagship, his Rolls Royce–driving, miso cod–loving devotees revolted. Surprised but obedient, the chef let this one live on. And the new one will open this summer just up the street (at 903 N. La Cienega Blvd.).

We Loved

Black cod with miso; squid pasta with garlic sauce.

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