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Given its spare decor, rough-and-tumble location and menu of alarming pre-Hispanic spe-cialties, it’s no surprise that this restaurant caters to a mostly male crowd of local mer-chants—and has done so since 1924. According to availability, there are escamoles (fried ant larvae, served with guacamole and tortillas), chapulínes (grasshoppers), maguey worms and armadillo in mango sauce. For those in a less adventurous mood, the post-Columbian choices include wonderful game meats such as wild boar and venison.

We Loved

Wild boar in tomato sauce; deer meatballs with huitlacoche.

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