Food & Wine

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Perilli

39 Via Marmorata;
011-39-06-574-2415.
Classic Value
This old-fashioned place in the Testaccio neighborhood, complete with grumpy waiters, makes no concessions to tourists. The decor, including the murals of ancient Roman scenes, hasn’t changed for about 50 years—and neither have the extraordinary pastas: carbonara, amatriciana and the not-for-beginners pagliata (made with calf intestines).

We Loved

Sautéed lamb innards (lung, liver and spleen).
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