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It looks touristy with its red-checked tablecloths and candles in Chianti bottles, but this six-year-old taverna is amazing. It’s a family concern: Alessio Liberatore is the chef and owner, while his son Aldo, daughter Claudia and wife Maria Grazia take orders and serve. Ignore the menu posted by the front door in favor of the dozen-odd specials that always put a spin on the classics, like a ragù of veal and truffles instead of beef.

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Egg-stuffed meat loaf.

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