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For 18 years, Fabio Picchi, Cibrèo’s eccentric chef-owner, has been taking over the northwest corner of the Sant’Ambrogio market; there’s now a trattoria, a cafè and a dinner theater, but the comfortable original is still the best environment for his soulful Tuscan cooking and the Tuscan-heavy wine list. The experience starts when the menu arrives and the waiter sits down with you to recite the day’s primi and secondi.

We Loved

Inzimino (spicy squid–and–Swiss chard stew); raw sea bass with celery.

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