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The restaurant in the Bono-owned Clarence hotel has always been fashionable—and its many nooks and semiprivate tables are ideal spots for discreet people-watching. Since Fred Cordonnier arrived in the kitchen from the Michelin two-starred Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud in fall 2005, the cooking (lots of wonderful local game and seafood) is finally extraordinary, too. The daily market menu is Dublin’s best lunchtime bargain.

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Cod with brandade beignets.

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