Food & Wine

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Bangkok Retro

181 Wangderm Rd., Thonburi;
011-66-2-891-1248.
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A year-old restaurant near the Temple of Dawn, Bangkok Retro is in a tiny row house from the turn of the 20th century. Chef-owner Kaithong Thongtheam bucks the modern-food trend with recipes passed down from her family, cooking the kind of intricate dishes that are rapidly becoming a rarity.

We Loved

Sreng-wah, a spicy salad of herbs, shrimp and crisp-fried catfish; tom kha plasalid (the ubiquitous coconut soup, done here with smoked fish).
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