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One of Mumbai’s more imaginative restaurants contrasts its 100-year-old hotel setting near the Gateway of India with a modern interior of black pillars and funky tableware. Chefs Hemant Oberoi and Shyam Longani overhaul recipes from Punjab villages, using seasonal produce and olive oil instead of ghee. Desserts are also inspired, as in "The Peak," an Indian-style baked Alaska made with meringue-covered kulfi (ice cream) and gulab jamun (fried dough coated in syrup).

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Murg khatta pyaz (chicken with pickled onion).

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