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High above the city in this glass-wrapped pod of a building, Melbourne chef Geoff Lindsay delivers multi-ethnic cooking with influences from Malaysia, Turkey, India and China. His low-key, ingredient-focused food displays a very Australian attention to detail—not that anyone is focusing closely on their plates in this theatrical space with cascading, multitiered seating and extraordinary views. The latter make for a touristy clientele—plus locals prepared to sus-pend their cynicism.

We Loved

Boston lobster with pickled lemon leaves and zucchini flowers; aromatic red curry duck with crispy fried egg, sweet fish sauce and coconut rice.

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