“What do you call treacle?” Stephen Harris asks over the phone.
He pauses momentarily, searching for the American name for black molasses. He’s thinking about swirling it into sweet-and-salty Irish soda bread, to be spread with cream cheese and topped with smoked fish. This is one of many dishes he’s considering cooking when he comes to New York next week.
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He’ll be here to give us a taste of The Sportsman, his self-dubbed “grotty rundown pub by the sea,” which is also known as the current best restaurant in the U.K. The two-night pop-up will happen at The Four Horsemen in Williamsburg. (You can book a table by emailing firstname.lastname@example.org, or walk in Tuesday or Wednesday.)