7 New Restaurants Where Passionate Pizzaioli Are Upping Their Pie Game

Eliesa Johnson
Auteur pizza has arrived.

La Morra

The ultimate blank canvas for chefs these days: charred, puffy dough. “Working with 
it keeps me on my toes,” says Zach Swemle, the chef behind mobile Neapolitan pizza outfit La Morra, which recently decamped from Charleston to Los Angeles. Swemle combed through hundreds of YouTube videos and online forums to learn how to build his own oven, which he did atop a trailer using over 1,800 ceramic tiles. At his 
new Eastside brick-and-mortar location, he’ll do it all over again. lamorrapizzeria.com.

Bruciato

Everything is strictly Neapolitan—down to the Tipo 00 flour and top-of-the-line Stefano Ferrara oven—at Brendan McGill’s spot on Washington’s Bainbridge Island. pizzeriabruciato.com.


Nicky's Coal Fired

The only coal-fired oven in Tennessee is burning bright at Tony Galzin’s Nashville pizzeria. 
He also uses the oven to singe vegetables and whole fish. nickysnashville.com.


Superfine

Chef Matthew Gaudet used the sourdough starter from his former Boston restaurant West Bridge for the pies at this casual spot in Manchester by the Sea, Massachusetts. They get topped with the likes of lamb sausage and stracciatella cheese. superfinefood.com.


Il Forno

The oven is built by hand and the charcuterie made in-house at Jason Garcia’s San Antonio pie slinger. ilfornosa.com.

The Den

Pizza was such a popular staff meal at SF bakery Craftsman & Wolves, guests started to notice. Baker William Werner responded by opening this supercreative, veg-centric slice shop. craftsman-wolves.com/caw-den.

Young Joni

Ann Kim, the brains behind this mini Minneapolis pizza empire, turns out genre-bending pies with kimchi and gochujang glaze. youngjoni.com.

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