The ultimate blank canvas for chefs these days: charred, puffy dough. “Working with it keeps me on my toes,” says Zach Swemle, the chef behind mobile Neapolitan pizza outfit La Morra, which recently decamped from Charleston to Los Angeles. Swemle combed through hundreds of YouTube videos and online forums to learn how to build his own oven, which he did atop a trailer using over 1,800 ceramic tiles. At his new Eastside brick-and-mortar location, he’ll do it all over again. lamorrapizzeria.com.
Everything is strictly Neapolitan—down to the Tipo 00 flour and top-of-the-line Stefano Ferrara oven—at Brendan McGill’s spot on Washington’s Bainbridge Island. pizzeriabruciato.com.
Nicky's Coal Fired
The only coal-fired oven in Tennessee is burning bright at Tony Galzin’s Nashville pizzeria. He also uses the oven to singe vegetables and whole fish. nickysnashville.com.