“This city has changed so much,” Thompson says. “It’s an exciting time to be here. It feels like a real homecoming.”
At Allumette, the food was brainy and untethered (shellfish-infused tapioca and tomato salad, monkfish liver with apricot ume), but once the restaurant shut down in summer 2014, he went off to study the “honest and slow food way,” as he likes to call it, at SHED in Healdsburg. For the last year, he's been learning the art of hyperlocal sourcing at Christophe Harbour in St. Kitts.