It may be a cliché that the steakhouse is the seat of male social ritual, but even in this era of pantsuit nation feminism, it’s still a sturdy idea. Enter Angie Mar, putting the notion of the masculine meatery on watch. Since she left her corporate job to become a chef, Angie has had a laser focus in her pursuit of meat: She’s an alum of Marlow & Sons and the Spotted Pig. She apprenticed with the legendary Parisian butcher Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec, who imparted what is now an Angie signature, swaddling beef in whiskey-soaked cloth as it ages. Angie’s personal heritage is eclectic—her mother grew up in England and Taiwan, her aunt was a legendary Chinese restaurateur in Seattle who once employed Bruce Lee. And at the helm of the Bea, Angie lets all of these Euro, Eastern and thoroughly-modern impulses ride: beef cheek champvallon and other Larousse deep cuts, an English game meat pie encased in golden suet crust, a show-stopping duck, salt-cured, smoked and roasted, that splits the difference between Peking and flambé, and of course blockbuster beef, lavished with blistered blackberries and prawn butter. It all adds up to a radical moment of reckoning for the steakhouse, and not a moment too soon.