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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

The Food & Wine Diet

A Smoked Salmon Rice Bowl with Riesling

Smoked Salmon and Avocado Rice Bowl with Riesling

These healthy recipes are all created to pair with wine (a 5-ounce glass has anywhere from 110 to 150 calories)—all for 600 calories or fewer. Read more >

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Tasting Room

Oregon's Best Gamays

Oregon's Best Gamays

2011 Bow & Arrow Gamay Noir ($19)
Scott Frank trained in France's Loire Valley before moving to Portland to make wines that emulate the Loire's fresh, clean Gamay style.

2011 Evening Land Gamay Noir ($23)
This dark-fruited Gamay, made in concrete vats, is from one of the original blocks of Evening Land's Seven Springs Vineyard, planted in 1983.

2012 Division Wine Co. Gamay Noir ($24)
Using the classic winemaking techniques they learned in Beaujolais, Tom and Kate Monroe produce just 63 cases of this cranberry-scented wine.

2010 Willakenzie Estate Gamay Noir ($26)
Burgundy-born Bernard Lacroute's winery specializes in wines from that region—Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and this fragrant, floral Gamay.

2011 Brick House Gamay Noir ($28)
Doug Tunnell has made Gamay in Oregon's Willamette Valley since 1994. His vibrant, organic bottling is from a four-acre plot on Ribbon Ridge.

Related: Where to Buy Wine Online
Portland Travel Guide
Wine Pairings

This Old Wine

Top-Vintage Bordeaux for Under $20

You don't have to be a hoarder or deep-pocketed auction-goer to drink well-aged wine. Here, we spotlight affordable old bottles to buy now.

2000 Château Lanessan Haut-Médoc: It's currently the prime drinking window for an ocean of good 2000 Bordeaux, but much of it doesn't offer great value. The year was hailed by critics as a near-perfect vintage, so many bottles are priced accordingly. But there are exceptions, like this one from an underrated property near the famed St-Julien sub-region.

The (Wonderful) Effects of Age: Here are a few scents you're supposed to detect in good aged Bordeaux: Leather (check), spice (here too), tobacco (in this case, a very sweet unlit-cigar note). Fruit fades over time, but there's still plenty of the expected cassis, plus dark berries. The palate is very pure, which is wine-speak meaning it's not hindered by any faint unpleasant undertones. It's just extremely enjoyable, textbook Bordeaux.

Drink It With: A rich lamb dish would be excellent, but the important thing is that it's paired with fat and protein, both of which make tannic wines taste better. The tannins in this firm, Cabernet-based bottling are at just the right level to be tempered by a nice piece of red meat.

Best Price Online: Total Wine & More in Norwalk, CT has it for a very low $19, and it's still a great buy at around $30 elsewhere.

Related: Benchmark Wine Producers in Bordeaux
Spain's #1 Source for Old Wine
A Killer Port from a Top Producer

The Food & Wine Diet

Fresh Bean and Tomato Chili with Rosé

Fresh Bean and Tomato Chili

These healthy recipes are all created to pair with wine (a 5-ounce glass has anywhere from 110 to 150 calories)—all for 600 calories or fewer.

People often get most excited about rosé wines during the hottest months, but they are super food friendly and especially good with fall ingredients. This fiber-rich vegetarian chili makes good use of produce that will be in Northeastern farmers’ markets well into October—tomatoes, chiles and cilantro—and it is incredibly warming. For a spicier chili, add the seeds of the jalapeño.

Fresh Bean and Tomato Chili
Total: 40 MIN
2 Servings

2 cups fresh cranberry beans (2 pounds in the shell)
2 medium garlic cloves, 1 halved and peeled, and 1 minced
1 thyme sprig
1 pound tomatoes, halved and cored
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely diced (½ cup)
1 jalapeño, quartered, seeded and thinly sliced crosswise
½ teaspoon ground cumin
2 tablespoons crème fraîche
Cilantro leaves, for garnish

1. In a medium saucepan, cover the cranberry beans with 1 inch of water. Add the halved garlic clove and the thyme and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat until the beans are tender, about 25 minutes. Drain, discarding the garlic and thyme and reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid.

2. Meanwhile, using a box grater, coarsely grate the cut sides of the tomatoes into a bowl so you have a tomato puree; discard the skins.

3. In a deep skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and cook over moderately high heat until it starts to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the minced garlic and jalapeño and cook over moderate heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the cumin and cook for 30 seconds longer. Add the fresh tomato puree and bring to a simmer. Cook until the puree is slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the beans and half of the reserved cooking liquid and cook until the beans are heated through, about 2 minutes. For a looser chili, add more of the cooking liquid; for a thicker chili, simmer a few minutes longer.

4. Transfer the chili to bowls, garnish with the crème fraîche and cilantro leaves and serve. Wine A fruity rosé, such as 2012 Oupia Minervois Rosé. One serving 416 cal, 20 gm fat, 5 gm sat fat, 56 gm carb, 22 gm fiber, 19 gm protein.

Kristin Donnelly is a former Food & Wine editor and cofounder of Stewart & Claire, an all-natural line of lip balms made in Brooklyn.

Related: The F&W Diet 4-Week Plan
Healthy Snacks
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Cheap Wine Challenge

Mineral, Energetic Riesling

2012 Stein Blauschiefer Riesling trocken

Here, wine experts reveal their favorite bottles costing less than $17. Many of the selections are lesser known but absolutely worth the search.

Who: Joe Salamone, wine buyer at Crush Wine & Spirits in New York City

What: 2012 Stein Blauschiefer Riesling trocken

Why: Blauschiefer means “blue slate,” an homage to the slate soil in Germany’s Mosel region, where this wine is from. The slate gives the wine tons of minerality and an almost salty smell and taste. Salamone loves this wine for its purity. If a wine can have energy, he says this one does.

Dr. Vino's Verdict

Oak-Chipped Wine? Not a Bargain

Ever wondered where the experts stand on the best wine practices and controversies? In this series, wine blogger, teacher and author Tyler Colman (a. k. a. Dr. Vino) delivers a final judgement.

Don’t you think using oak chips to flavor wine is cheap and sleazy? A winemaking shortcut mostly used for low-priced wines, the practice was banned in the U.S. until 1993 even though it was widely used anyway. Now, hundreds of tons of chips are legally dunked like giant tea bags in tanks of American wine every year, and producers also use methods involving oak staves (planks) or even bags of oak dust. These practices impart oaky flavors without the expense of aging in pricey oak barrels, but the effect is usually unappealing: obnoxious, overpowering and fake-tasting notes of toast and vanilla. Better inexpensive wines are often unoaked, with no weird woodiness to obscure the wine's inherent flavors.

Related: More From Dr. Vino
In Search of Good Cheap Wine
Affordable Aged Bottles

Cheap Wine Challenge

Lively and Smoky: Red Muscadet

Here, wine experts reveal their favorite bottles for under $17. Many of the selections are lesser known but absolutely worth the search.

Who: Noel Sherr, owner of Cave Taureau wine shop in Durham, North Carolina.

What: 2012 Domaine de la Pépière, Vin de Pays de Loire-Atlantique, Cuvée Granit, $16

Why: Muscadet is more known for its minerally white wines that pair brilliantly with shellfish, but the cool region also produces a small amount of lively red wines. This blend from the revered winemaker Marc Ollivier includes Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Côt (a.k.a. Malbec) and Merlot. Sherr says: “It’s just delicious: supple and slightly smoky.”

Kristin Donnelly is a former Food & Wine editor and co-founder of Stewart & Claire, an all-natural line of lip balms made in Brooklyn.

Related: How to Find Value Wines 
French Wine Region: The Loire Valley
Where to Drink Wine Now

This Old Wine

A Killer Port from a Top Producer

You don't have to be a hoarder or deep-pocketed auction-goer to drink well-aged wine. Here, we spotlight affordable old bottles to buy now.

1999 Niepoort Colheita Port: Though Dirk Niepoort is well known as the man who put Portugal's Douro Valley on the map for dry table wines, his family's traditional ports are fantastic as well. This one is a colheita, meaning it's made like a tawny port but comes entirely from a single year's harvest (rather than being made from a blend of vintages).

The (Wonderful) Effects of Age: Colheitas spend at least seven years in porous oak barrels before being bottled, which means they oxidize and develop flavors like dried fig and toffee. Both of those flavors are here, along with bright red fruit and black walnut, and they all mesh together to form an incredibly delicious, salty-sweet dessert wine. While some ports can be cloying, this one has plenty of acid to balance the sugar.

Pair it With: Fall dinner party desserts, like a giant fig pancake. (And if you're already planning for Thanksgiving, it's hard to imagine a better wine to pair with a toasted pecan tart.)

Best Price Online: $39 at We Speak Wine. (Find more stores.)

Related: More Affordable Aged Wines
The Radical Reinvention of Great Portuguese Wine
Our Favorite Fall Desserts

Dr. Vino's Verdict

Don't Fear the Sulfites

Ever wondered where the experts stand on the best wine practices and controversies? In this series, wine blogger, teacher and author Tyler Colman (a. k. a. Dr. Vino) delivers a final judgement.

Don’t you think the risks posed by sulfites in wine are completely overblown? You’re right. Wines do contain the compounds, but they're not the reason you feel sick the day after overindulging. Sulfite reactions are both rare and severe; they include anaphylaxis, not a hangover. If you're still in doubt, here's a test: If you can eat five dried apricots without any adverse effects, then you don’t have a sulfite allergy. So, what's with the warning on the bottle? The intention of the phrase “contains sulfites” on wine labels was originally “not to inform but to frighten,” writes Thomas Pinney, in his book A History of Wine in America, Volume 2. Anti-alcohol lobbyists were trying to scare people away from wine in the 1970s and ’80s, and they found their man in Washington in the form of Strom Thurmond. The senator fought for the legislation that required the language. Of course, dried apricots don’t have warnings—because there's no anti-dried fruit lobby.

Related: More from Dr. Vino
Fantastic Australian Wine Values
How Wine Labels Lie About Alcohol

Wine Wednesday

Fantastic Australian Wine Values

2012 Yalumba Y Series Viognier

American wine drinkers, I think, largely labor under the mistaken idea that Australian wine can be summed up in one word: Shiraz. Not that I’ve got anything against the grape—Shiraz (known as Syrah pretty much everywhere else) is one of the great wine varieties of the world.

What people don’t realize, unfortunately, is the extraordinary variety of other wines that Australia produces. It’s not actually a surprise, when you think about it—after all, you can fit France into Australia about 17 times over, so wouldn’t it make sense that the Aussies might have enough different climates and terrains to grow more than one kind of grape? Besides, people have been making wine in Australia since 1791; if the only thing to put in the bottle were Shiraz, Australia’s winemakers would have long since expired from boredom.

With that in mind, here are a few great non-Shiraz Aussie values I came across on a recent trip there:

2012 Jacob’s Creek Riesling ($8) An appealingly juicy Riesling in a dry style, it’s got bright lemon-lime citrus flavors—simple, but tasty. The winery’s Reserve bottling (about $13) is a notch more complex, with floral notes and a lingering finish.

2012 Yalumba Y Series Viognier ($12) Viognier can easily become overripe and cloying, but Yalumba’s affordable Y series bottling comes off fresh and light-bodied, with juicy pineapple fruit.

2011 D’Arenberg The Stump Jump Red ($13) Chester Osborne, the guiding force behind D’Arenberg, is one of Australia’s most innovative winemakers (and marketers, for that matter). This spicy blend focuses on the deep plum-cherry flavors that are a benchmark of McLaren Vale Grenache.

2010 Heartland Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) Made by Barossa winemaking star Ben Glaetzer using fruit from the Langhorne Creek region, this is classic Aussie Cabernet: deep cassis fruit, firm tannins and a hit of spice on the finish.

2011 Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir ($17) Innocent Bystander is located in the Yarra Valley, one of Australia’s best Pinot locales, and this cherry-inflected, crisp red offers true Pinot character for under $20, a rare thing.

Related: Napa Valley Wineries to Visit
Greatest Australian Wine Producers
Spectacular New Wine Shops
Where to Drink Wine Now

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