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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Cheap Wine Challenge

The Wine Equivalent of Smelling Salts

2012 Domaine La Grange Tiphaine, Bel Air Touraine-Amboise Chenin Blanc

Here, wine experts reveal their favorite bottles costing less than $17. Many of the selections are lesser known but absolutely worth the search.

Who: Julia Weinberg, director of partnerships and alliances of the must-download wine app Delectable. Read more >

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The Food & Wine Diet

Chicken Thigh Ragù over Pasta with Barbera

Chicken Thigh Ragù over Pasta with Barbera

These healthy recipes are all created to pair with wine (a 5-ounce glass has anywhere from 110 to 150 calories)—all for 600 calories or fewer. Read More »

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Cheap Wine Challenge

A California Wine with Rhône-Inspired Finesse

Hope Family Wines Troublemaker Blend 6

Here, wine experts reveal their favorite bottles costing less than $17. Many of the selections are lesser known but absolutely worth the search. Read more >

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Dr. Vino's Verdict

How to Tell When a Wine is Flawed

Ever wondered where the experts stand on the best wine practices and controversies? In this series, wine blogger, teacher and author Tyler Colman (a. k. a. Dr. Vino) delivers a final judgement.

When is it OK to send a bottle back at a restaurant? When there's something clearly wrong with it. The most common fault is being corked, meaning that a faulty cork has tainted the wine with trace amounts of an element called 2,4,6-Trichloroanisole, or TCA for short. The scent will suggest wet cardboard or mold. Other flaws include oxidation (which can make wines taste more nutty than fruity, and turn white wines brownish) and heat damage (which can make wines taste flat and increase their risk of oxidation). Flaws like these are always legitimate reasons for rejecting a wine. If you simply don’t like what you ordered, that’s a different case.

Related: More From Dr. Vino
Affordable Aged Bottles
A Winemaker's Oregon Nouveau Party

This Old Wine

Essential Drinking for the Beaujolais-Obsessed

You don't have to be a hoarder or deep-pocketed auction-goer to drink well-aged wine. Here, we spotlight affordable old bottles to buy now.

1998 Domaine J. Chamonard Morgon Le Clos de Lys: Beaujolais has come a long way since the days of Nouveau mania. The region now boasts an impressive lineup of skilled small-scale producers making fantastic wines with grapes from the 10 cru vineyard areas. The best wines from the Morgon area have often been known to age well, and this year the husband-and-wife team behind Domaine J. Chamonard released a small cache from the 1998 vintage that had been sitting in their cellars since bottling. While this wine isn't cheap (part of the region's appeal is that the best bottles rarely top $30), its quality and rareness justify the expense for any dedicated Beaujolais lover.

The (Wonderful) Effects of Age: Precise, red-fruit flavors are a hallmark of Beaujolais. Even at age 15, this one has plenty, though what might have once been sharp raspberry has mellowed to soft, sweet red cherry and strawberry. There's also a healthy amount of a pleasantly gamey, earthy note that comes from long aging. The fruit and funk work beautifully together on a light, silky-textured frame.

Drink It With: Something simple, like Judy Rodgers's classic herbed roast chicken with bread salad. Younger, brighter Beaujolais can work well with stronger flavors, but they could overshadow this subtler, more complex old wine.

Best Price Online: $49 at Chambers St. Wines. Find more stores.

Related: Beaujolais Guide
A Winemaker's Oregon Nouveau Party
Top-Vintage Bordeaux for Under $20

The Food & Wine Diet

A Smoked Salmon Rice Bowl with Riesling

Smoked Salmon and Avocado Rice Bowl with Riesling

These healthy recipes are all created to pair with wine (a 5-ounce glass has anywhere from 110 to 150 calories)—all for 600 calories or fewer. Read more >

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Tasting Room

Oregon's Best Gamays

Oregon's Best Gamays

2011 Bow & Arrow Gamay Noir ($19)
Scott Frank trained in France's Loire Valley before moving to Portland to make wines that emulate the Loire's fresh, clean Gamay style.

2011 Evening Land Gamay Noir ($23)
This dark-fruited Gamay, made in concrete vats, is from one of the original blocks of Evening Land's Seven Springs Vineyard, planted in 1983.

2012 Division Wine Co. Gamay Noir ($24)
Using the classic winemaking techniques they learned in Beaujolais, Tom and Kate Monroe produce just 63 cases of this cranberry-scented wine.

2010 Willakenzie Estate Gamay Noir ($26)
Burgundy-born Bernard Lacroute's winery specializes in wines from that region—Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and this fragrant, floral Gamay.

2011 Brick House Gamay Noir ($28)
Doug Tunnell has made Gamay in Oregon's Willamette Valley since 1994. His vibrant, organic bottling is from a four-acre plot on Ribbon Ridge.

Related: Where to Buy Wine Online
Portland Travel Guide
Wine Pairings

This Old Wine

Top-Vintage Bordeaux for Under $20

You don't have to be a hoarder or deep-pocketed auction-goer to drink well-aged wine. Here, we spotlight affordable old bottles to buy now.

2000 Château Lanessan Haut-Médoc: It's currently the prime drinking window for an ocean of good 2000 Bordeaux, but much of it doesn't offer great value. The year was hailed by critics as a near-perfect vintage, so many bottles are priced accordingly. But there are exceptions, like this one from an underrated property near the famed St-Julien sub-region.

The (Wonderful) Effects of Age: Here are a few scents you're supposed to detect in good aged Bordeaux: Leather (check), spice (here too), tobacco (in this case, a very sweet unlit-cigar note). Fruit fades over time, but there's still plenty of the expected cassis, plus dark berries. The palate is very pure, which is wine-speak meaning it's not hindered by any faint unpleasant undertones. It's just extremely enjoyable, textbook Bordeaux.

Drink It With: A rich lamb dish would be excellent, but the important thing is that it's paired with fat and protein, both of which make tannic wines taste better. The tannins in this firm, Cabernet-based bottling are at just the right level to be tempered by a nice piece of red meat.

Best Price Online: Total Wine & More in Norwalk, CT has it for a very low $19, and it's still a great buy at around $30 elsewhere.

Related: Benchmark Wine Producers in Bordeaux
Spain's #1 Source for Old Wine
A Killer Port from a Top Producer

The Food & Wine Diet

Fresh Bean and Tomato Chili with Rosé

Fresh Bean and Tomato Chili

These healthy recipes are all created to pair with wine (a 5-ounce glass has anywhere from 110 to 150 calories)—all for 600 calories or fewer.

People often get most excited about rosé wines during the hottest months, but they are super food friendly and especially good with fall ingredients. This fiber-rich vegetarian chili makes good use of produce that will be in Northeastern farmers’ markets well into October—tomatoes, chiles and cilantro—and it is incredibly warming. For a spicier chili, add the seeds of the jalapeño.

Fresh Bean and Tomato Chili
Total: 40 MIN
2 Servings

2 cups fresh cranberry beans (2 pounds in the shell)
2 medium garlic cloves, 1 halved and peeled, and 1 minced
1 thyme sprig
1 pound tomatoes, halved and cored
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely diced (½ cup)
1 jalapeño, quartered, seeded and thinly sliced crosswise
½ teaspoon ground cumin
2 tablespoons crème fraîche
Cilantro leaves, for garnish

1. In a medium saucepan, cover the cranberry beans with 1 inch of water. Add the halved garlic clove and the thyme and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat until the beans are tender, about 25 minutes. Drain, discarding the garlic and thyme and reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid.

2. Meanwhile, using a box grater, coarsely grate the cut sides of the tomatoes into a bowl so you have a tomato puree; discard the skins.

3. In a deep skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and cook over moderately high heat until it starts to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the minced garlic and jalapeño and cook over moderate heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the cumin and cook for 30 seconds longer. Add the fresh tomato puree and bring to a simmer. Cook until the puree is slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the beans and half of the reserved cooking liquid and cook until the beans are heated through, about 2 minutes. For a looser chili, add more of the cooking liquid; for a thicker chili, simmer a few minutes longer.

4. Transfer the chili to bowls, garnish with the crème fraîche and cilantro leaves and serve. Wine A fruity rosé, such as 2012 Oupia Minervois Rosé. One serving 416 cal, 20 gm fat, 5 gm sat fat, 56 gm carb, 22 gm fiber, 19 gm protein.

Kristin Donnelly is a former Food & Wine editor and cofounder of Stewart & Claire, an all-natural line of lip balms made in Brooklyn.

Related: The F&W Diet 4-Week Plan
Healthy Snacks
10 Ways to Use Kale

Cheap Wine Challenge

Mineral, Energetic Riesling

2012 Stein Blauschiefer Riesling trocken

Here, wine experts reveal their favorite bottles costing less than $17. Many of the selections are lesser known but absolutely worth the search.

Who: Joe Salamone, wine buyer at Crush Wine & Spirits in New York City

What: 2012 Stein Blauschiefer Riesling trocken

Why: Blauschiefer means “blue slate,” an homage to the slate soil in Germany’s Mosel region, where this wine is from. The slate gives the wine tons of minerality and an almost salty smell and taste. Salamone loves this wine for its purity. If a wine can have energy, he says this one does.

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Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

Join celebrity chefs, renowned winemakers and epicurean insiders at the culinary world’s most spectacular weekend, the FOOD & WINE Classic in Aspen, June 20-22.