At Pizza Loves Emily in Brooklyn, you'll never be sorry if you order a pizza. (I'm always partial to the Colony, topped with pickled chiles, pepperoni and honey.) But their not-so-secret weapon is the monumental Emmy Burger, made with dry-aged beef, with spicy buttery chile sauce and cheddar cheese melting all over it, on a pretzel bun. For good reason, it's been called one of the best burgers in the city (shout out to the experts at Gotham Burger Social Club).
And so, Emmy Squared, the just-opening Detroit-style pizza place from chef Matt Hyland and his wife Emily, working with Lou Tomczak, has pizza front and center. At Emmy Squared, in Williamsburg, the focus is pizza that plays by the four major rules of the Detroit style: It should be baked in a pan and served in squares. It should have a crisp, almost fried cheesy crust. It should be airy in the middle and not too dense. And the sauce should be ladled on in stripes after baking. "That allows for the dough and cheese marriage to be extra beautiful," says Emily Hyland. "The sauce is like the cherry on top."
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Of course that sounds outrageous. But, as with the outlier burger at Pizza Loves Emily, I have my eye on the sandwiches at Emmy Squared. Matt Hyland is a sandwich expert. (For his final at cooking school, his class was given chicken and told to make a spectacular dish. Everyone else made some version of a classic French chicken entree; Matt made the most perfect chicken cutlet sandwich.) He's serving just four sandwiches at Emmy Squared. The challenge is which one to eat first.