Brunch was big in the ’80s, overhyped in the ’90s, maligned in the aughts. But now chefs are making it truly great.
I've always gone out for brunch for reasons that had more to do with spicy Bloody Marys than with food. I obsess endlessly about where to eat dinner; at brunch, all the menus seemed the same.
Now, brunch wins my award for Most Improved Meal. Chefs had already rethought burgers and fried chicken and all the other comfort-food standards; likewise, they’d made breakfast-for-dinner a trend. Bringing that ingenuity to brunch was logical for restaurants that take comfort food seriously. “I spent 99 percent of my career working in fine dining,” says Lincoln Carson, whois making killer pimento cheese muffins at Superba Food + Bread in Los Angeles. “When you’re trying to garner Michelin stars, you have no interest in brunch.”