The old-school wines from this region in France are seemingly on every cutting-edge wine list.
Jura wine geeks are racing to scoop up as many bottles from Jacques Puffeney as they can find. The venerated natural-wine producer from the Arbois region announced his retirement as of the 2014 vintage; he subsequently leased most of his vineyards to Guillaume D’Angerville, a Burgundy producer. If you see a Puffeney wine at a restaurant like Heirloom Cafe in San Francisco, buy it now.
Most Americans can’t even pronounce Jura (Joo-ra), yet its wines have become practically a secret handshake for all the hippest Francophile sommeliers and shop owners. The Jura—which sits between Burgundy and the Swiss Alps—is one of France’s more traditional viticultural regions, excelling at natural wines. Its climate is comparable to Burgundy’s, meaning that Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grow well there. But the pros are especially fascinated by its more idiosyncratic grapes. White Savagnin is the basis for nutty, sherry-like wines, aged a minimum of six years, called vin jaune. And the red grapes Poulsard and Trousseau create light-bodied wines, somewhat similar to Beaujolais, that are incredibly aromatic and pair tremendously well with food.