Patrick Cappiello changes the wine list at Pearl & Ash every day, depending on what he has available and what’s coming out of the kitchen. Here are his picks for what to get before someone else does.
VALUE WINE HE’S MOST PROUD OF ON HIS LIST
2011 Weiser-Künstler Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese Trocken ($74)
There’s always great value to be found in Germany, but I think people are still a little hesitant about those wines—as they always have been in the US. Also, I’m really big into the wines from Germany right now from Weiser-Künstler; they make great dry wines from the Mosel, which is unique. This is probably one of my favorite trocken wines. You can obviously spend less money on German wines, but I think that for a dry Riesling, this is really a standout.
MOST AMAZING DISCOVERY ON HIS LIST
2012 La Grande Colline Le Canon ($40)
This is one of the coolest wines on the list. It’s from a producer in the northern Rhône—from a Japanese guy who bought an old domaine in the Ardèche. This wine is a Syrah and it’s really amazing and fresh. He’s all biodynamic. It’s a wine that has a personality, and it’s a $40 bottle of wine. It’s one of the greatest $40 bottles of wine on the list.
MOST IMPRESSIVE INEXPENSIVE BOTTLE ON HIS LIST
2012 Bernard Baudry Les Granges Chinon ($39)
I think the wines from Bernard Baudry represent great value. I think Chinon is more and more interesting to people. People are getting more and more excited about that wine and that region is getting a bit more expensive and I think he’s done a great job of keeping his prices really fair and we try to do the same with it.
TWO MORE WINES FROM HIS LIST THAT HE JUST LOVES
One producer that’s impossible to get and I should mention as some of my favorite wines is Overnoy in the Jura. I don’t even have them on the wine list now. I get them in and they’re gone in a week. I’ll do an Instagram photo that I got the wines and literally, before I get them on the wine list, people come and drink them all. I already have a love for the Jura, but his wines are like Selosse, where’s there’s just something different, something magical. He has the Midas touch. The wines are so much more elevated than anything else that’s made there and so singularly unique in the entire wine world. Sometimes I don’t even know how to explain why a wine affects me, but that wine always does—especially the Poulsard, the red wine from Overnoy, I think is really the most special. The wine is so floral, so aromatic and just really, really exciting.
2009–2012 Laurent Tribut Chablis ($65-$79)
Laurent Tribut’s wines are really spectacular. We have a vertical going on back to 2002, which I’m pretty excited about. He is the brother-in-law of Vincent Dauvissat. As Chablis is becoming more and more exciting to sommeliers, it’s becoming really hard to get. Producers like Raveneau and Dauvissat, who’ve really become the kings of this region, their wines are getting so expensive. That was what made Chablis so magical a long time ago—you could get grand cru–level white Burgundy that was super ageworthy, but was a fraction of the price of the stuff from the south. Now those prices are rivaling the prices you pay for great producers in Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet. It’s rough. But Tribut’s wines always tend to be a great value.