I stopped by yesterday at the VOS Selections portfolio tasting. For those not in the wine business, at various times during the year wholesalers and importers put on comprehensive tastings of their wines for folks in the trade, a concept that sounds pleasant in theory but is often like trying to taste wine in a rush-hour subway station. (Even worse, a subway station where everyone around you keeps spitting out jets of red liquid every few seconds.) Thankfully, VOS's event wasn't too jammed, which afforded me the opportunity to taste some terrific French wines, among others. I probably made it through 60 or 70 wines before the siren-call of the office pulled me back uptown; here are some highlights, all worth looking for. If you have trouble finding them, which you might well, then I'd suggest getting in touch with VOS directly and seeing if they have accounts who stock their wines in your area (in fact they suggest that on their website).
Roger Pouillon Cuvée de Reserve Brut NV (about $48) This grower Champagne comes from organically farmed vineyards. The cuvée is 85% Pinot Noir, which accounts for some of its full-bodied depth; it was toasty but crisp, with rich fruit and notes of honey. Pretty seductive.